Sirbaz Khan Becomes First Pakistani to Climb All 14 Eight-Thousanders Without Oxygen
Renowned Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan made history on Sunday. He successfully summited Mount Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, at 8,586 metres. The climb took place in Nepal this morning without the use of supplemental oxygen.
This achievement marks a landmark for Pakistan. Sirbaz is now the first Pakistani ever to complete all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks, known as the eight-thousanders, without oxygen support. Only a few elite mountaineers worldwide have done this.
Sirbaz had already made history last October. At that time, he became the first Pakistani climber to summit all 14 peaks over 8,000 metres. However, this time, he did it without any bottled oxygen, making the feat even more remarkable.
Praise From Nepal Tour Organisers
Imagine Nepal, the tour organisers supporting Sirbaz, congratulated him warmly. They said in a statement, “We extend our heartfelt congratulations to Mr Sirbaz Khan — our dear friend, client, and partner from Pakistan — on his incredible achievement of summiting Kangchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain, without supplemental oxygen this morning, May 18, 2025.”
Alpine Club of Pakistan Hails the Climber
Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, also praised Sirbaz. He said, “With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 14 highest peaks without oxygen.”
Haidri added, “Sirbaz Khan has made the entire nation proud. Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage on the highest peaks of the world.”
Historic Climb on Kangchenjunga
Sirbaz reached the summit of Mt. Kangchenjunga at 5:00am local time (4:15am PKT). The climb was done in true alpine style. This means he used minimal gear, did not rely on fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and did not use oxygen tanks.
Such climbing is considered the most demanding and purest form of mountaineering. This style requires extreme discipline, strength, and courage.
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A Decade of Determination
Sirbaz’s journey to this historic milestone spans over a decade. Since he began climbing in 2016, he has steadily scaled the world’s highest mountains.
The full list of peaks Sirbaz climbed without oxygen includes:
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Everest (8,848m)
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K2 (8,611m)
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Kangchenjunga (8,586m)
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Lhotse (8,516m)
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Makalu (8,485m)
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Cho Oyu (8,188m)
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Dhaulagiri (8,167m)
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Manaslu (8,163m)
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Nanga Parbat (8,126m)
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Annapurna I (8,091m)
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Gasherbrum I (8,080m)
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Broad Peak (8,051m)
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Gasherbrum II (8,035m)
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Shishapangma (8,027m)
This record-breaking summit of Kangchenjunga firmly places Sirbaz Khan among the world’s greatest mountaineers. It also brings immense pride to Pakistan and especially to Gilgit-Baltistan’s mountaineering community, Sirbaz’s home region.
A Tribute to His Mentor
Sirbaz comes from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan. Before his recent expeditions, he often spoke of his mentor, the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara. Sadpara was also a legendary climber who aimed to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.
Sadpara tragically lost his life during a winter expedition on K2 earlier this year. Sirbaz honored his mentor’s memory by completing the mission that Sadpara dreamed of.
Sirbaz said before climbing Dhaulagiri last year, “I am looking forward to this expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara.”
On four of his 14 expeditions, Sirbaz was accompanied by Sadpara. Their teamwork was well known in the climbing community.
National Pride and Recognition
Pakistani climbers, politicians, and civil society members congratulated Sirbaz on this historic feat. Among them were climbers Naila Kiani and Sajid Sadpara, who praised his courage and skill.
Sirbaz’s success is seen as a symbol of Pakistan’s growing presence in international mountaineering. His achievements inspire many young climbers, especially from Gilgit-Baltistan.
The Spirit of Pakistani Mountaineering
Sirbaz’s mission has always been clear: to represent Pakistan on the world’s highest stages. He wants to show the world Pakistani resilience, skill, and passion.
His style of climbing — pure alpine climbing — emphasizes minimalism, independence, and respect for the mountain. This approach is admired among serious climbers worldwide.
At just 35 years old, Sirbaz has already built a legacy that few can match. His story is one of determination, courage, and national pride.
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